Simyen mountains of Ethiopia: Mountaineering and Trekking information
Author: Jon Rigby FRGS
This report describes the Ethiopian Skies – Simien ‘96 expedition (12 Jan/2 Feb 1996) by Jon Rigby And Andy Carling; as such, all information is correct by date.
MAIN OBJECTIVE
Simyen Escarpment
Ras Dejen 4543m & 20k+ ridge traverse in a north westerly arc:- Analu 4473, Tefew Leser 4449, Metelal Pass 3800, Kidis Yared 4453, Abba Yared 4409, Silki 4420, Beroch Wuha 4272.
ROUTE GUIDE
Debark – Sankaber Camp
Time 7 hours
Elevation +600m
On leaving Debark the route follows the road to the outskirts of the town before striking off west and descending towards the Lamma Wenz (river) crossing.
The climb from here to rejoin the road near Mindigebsa is a steep and dusty introduction to upland path erosion. Frequently cutting the corners off the road route, the path rises and falls over a number of spurs until the first sight of the escarpment comes into view looking down the path leading to Adarmaz Camp and the first troupe of Gelada Baboons.
From this point the path hugs the escarpment lip, skirting Aman Amba, and eventually leads round to Sankaber Camp. This is a long (32km), hot introduction to the trek into the National Park and, as the mules appear and disappear at will, a taxing test of one’s day-’sac contents.
Sankaber Camp – Gich Camp
Time 6 hours
Elevation -300 +700
Following a visit to pt3304 the route follows the road into the head of the Wazla Wenz where a detour towards the escarpment gives a dramatic view of the Jinbar Wenz waterfall. Climbing through the woods the path joins the road for a short distance before striking into the Jinbar Wenz valley and a crossing place frequented by numerous Baboons.
The climb to Gich village is a badly eroded, dusty pull following which the hill lessens and grassland leads to Gich Camp situated on a small promontory catching great sunsets.
Ras Dashen/Dejen summit massif
Imet Gogo & Saha
Time 4 hours
Elevation -300 +300
As Gich Camp is at 3600m an acclimatisation day over to Imet Gogo and Saha is well advised; this also provides a more leisurely outing to the best viewpoints on the whole escarpment.
Easy walking among giant Lobelia Rhynchopetalum (2-3m high rosettes with flower spikes to 6m), troupes of Baboons and circling birds of prey. Also, with powerful binoculars, Walya Ibex can be spotted on the more isolated slopes.
Gich – Chennek Camp
Time 4 hours
Elevation -300 +300
After a short descent through woods full of rose bushes, cross the Jinbar Wenz and climb onto the ridge to rejoin the road which is easily followed past Ambaras and Argin to Chennek Camp.
The view to Inatye and along the escarpment back to Imet Gogo is seen through a gap in the cliff wall overlooking Dihwara. The promontory above Chennek Camp overlooks the major aspect of the north-eastern face of the escarpment.
Simnen Escarpment
Chennek Camp – Mizma
Time 8 hours
Elevation +600m -1400m +700m
There are a myriad of badly eroded paths over Bwahit, though the steady climb leads to a shoulder some 200m below the summit; the head wall cliffs would be problematic in poor visibility.
The long and dusty descent path, straight into the sun, visits the school and clinic at Atgeba before following the stream down to the wide Mesheha Wenz. Climbing steeply up to Ambikwa can be sweltering and most groups camp here the night.
Mizma is 300m higher, providing a cooler venue for a rest day, below the summit cliffs of Abbat Dejen’s stunning sunsets. This is a long, hot day with a lot of height variation; though additional water is available on route.
Mizma – Metelal Pass
Time 7 hours
Elevation +1000m -700m
The dirt path to Ras Dejen takes a gully north of Mizma and then contours round a number of spurs before tackling a wide, rocky gully to the pass between Abbat Dejen and the summit ridge; this provides an easy, though airy, scramble which can be avoided on the east side.
Ras Dejen has two distinct rock summits of which the first is the highest. Following the cliff edge it is possible to scramble easily around to Analu providing fine views of Ras Dejen’s north face speckled with snow. The rock can be loose in places.
Tefew Leser is a short, rocky scramble past numerous dry-stone circles; gun placements! From the summit the path skirts northwest before descending a path onto a lower shoulder and rejoining the ridge leading to Metelal. It is possible to descend this ridge directly but route finding experience gained on steep crags is a distinct advantage.
There is no water at Metelal Pass; be sure to have instructed the mule drivers to collect some as they contour around from Mizma otherwise descend to Meta Ber to camp.
Ras Silki
Metelal Pass – Arkwasiye
Time 7 hours
Elevation +600m -900m
Climb the broad ridge, over a number of subsidiary tops, to the summit of Kidis Yared. The outlying tops along the grass ridge to Abba Yared can be skirted easily.
The summit rock wall is turned to the north-east and then a contouring scramble around to the west face takes some care. The descent winds through small cliffs into a drainage basin full of giant Lobelia before reaching the pass.
At this point it is possible to contour past Silki and Beroch Wuha into Arkwasiye though this misses out the best summit scrambling, on the twin peaks of Silki, that the ridge has to offer.
Arkwasiye – Mekarebya
Time 6 hours
Elevation -1600m
The path leads across the broad west shoulder of Beroch Wuha, past Sona, before dropping (I means this!) off the escarpment to the Ansiya Wenz; this descent is very steep, dusty and loose facing directly into the sun. Swim in the river for a long time.
In the lush valley of the lowlands the temperature is substantially higher than the ridges and the path contours in a welcome manner, through palm trees and bush, to Mekareya; the area is called Lamo by locals.
The campsite looks across the valley to a circle of mountains with Amba Ton in the centre; this is the view pictured on Ethiopian Airline Tickets.
Mekarebya – Adi Arkay
Time 5 hours
Elevation -500m +500m -300m
After descending loose dirt to the river a couple of hundred metres below, the path follows this watercourse until it takes a side-valley north.
Some 2km up this valley the path enters the wood and climbs 300m directly up towards a broad shoulder on the west side. From here the path heads north-west, across the shoulder and along a narrow ridge, before contouring into Adi Arkay town and the Ras Dejen Hotel. Eat, drink and be merry!
MAPS
Any atlas should identify Ethiopia and the Simien Mountains north-east of Lake Tana. The only mountain map available is a 1:100 000 survey study from the Institute of Geography, University of Berne, Switzerland.
This is perfectly adequate showing all major topographic features and settlements, roads, paths and tracks. Some village and peak names are not accurate to local descriptions.
These maps are extremely rare and it is virtually impossible to obtain them in Ethiopia even though all official agencies use them.
CULTURE
Mainly devout Coptic Christians tolerating western-style dress and respectful conduct. Extremely friendly, happy and helpful people at all times displaying a pleasure in your wish to visit and spend money; which prompts many to speak good English.
The more remote towns and tourist villages will assume every Westerner is immensely wealthy; which, by comparison, they are. The sense of being conspicuously wealthy is profound and everyone (I mean it!) will ask for pens while shouting (you, you, you) and following you for substantial distances.
Begging is a problem but rarely an irritation; everyone will expect 1birr for looking after your shoes at the church door, carrying a bag you didn’t ask to be moved, smiling, . .. … ! The people have a serene beauty that prompts as many cameras to click as the hills and churches do.
Fly Addis Ababa (7Hrs) stay Extreme Hotel $18; fly Gondar (1Hrs) stay Ethiopian Hotel 14birr; bus Debark (5hrs) stay Simien Hotel 16birr; trek into Simien Mountains, camping; Adi Arkay stay Ras Dejen Hotel 20birr; bus to Debark (5hrs) bus to Gondar (5hrs); fly Addis Ababa (1hrs).
TRAVEL
Visa required £43 London Embassy 48hrs turn-around. Airport Tax payable on each flight.
International and Domestic flights can be booked in advance with Ethiopian Airlines though reconfirmation is necessary on all flights; the dual-propeller DHC-6 planes used internally carry 18 passengers and are nearly always full.
There are new airports being built in the north and the Gondar airport is scheduled to have the runway extended to accommodate jets following the developments at Lalibela and Bahar Dar.
As these are staging points on the route to Gondar it may be necessary to make connections, in future, with the prop’ planes flying into the, shorter, dirt strip.
The Bus into the hills follows the Italian built dirt highway which heads north to Eritrea. Tickets need to be bought the night before and departure times tend to be either 4am, 6am, or mid-day; never sure which so always worth checking.
Most routes run each day. All society uses the bus so be prepared to share a seat with an Army General, Farmer, goat, chicken, . . .
Taxis in Addis are either Government fixed-priced Merc’s, or anything that moves, painted blue and white, over which you must negotiate your fare beforehand.
SIMIEN NATIONAL PARK
Designated a World Heritage Site, the Park covers the Escarpment and surrounding peaks and has a number of bureaucratic requirements for entry and travel; Office in Debark where all arrangements can be easily made.
The Park buildings at Sankaber, and each Camp, were destroyed during the war and these are being rapidly rebuilt. Consequently it will soon be possible to take a 4WDrive into Sankaber where the new Park Office will be located and accomodation built.
Park Fee is 70birr for a 48hrs pass (and even if you only use it on the way in they assume you would have to come out, taking that amount of time?!) Guard 20birr/day; Mule 25birr/day; Mule Driver 25/birr/day. If you walk out by a different route you will be charged for the additional day’s return, at the mules pace, to Debark.
This group will look after all their own requirements though it is expected that you will buy them some coffee and sugar for the trip. Tips, two additional days pay, expected.
ACCOMODATION
The Extreme Hotel is the best of the western budget stays in Addis with a great bar and restaurant; pay in either $ or birr at $18/20 rate. Gondar has many hotels of all prices with the Government pile at $45 or the Ethiopian Hotel at 14birr for shared rooms.
The cheaper the price the less sophisticated the sanitation. Debark and Adi Arkay have only one real Hotel each and the cockroaches know it.
There is no dedicated accomodation in the mountains but villagers will put you up if you require it. It is preferable to camp as this tends to avoid the numerous rats living around the grain stores besides the mud huts. Once the rebuilding programme is complete there will be hut accomodation at Sankaber, Gich, and Chennek.
CURRENCY
The official rate of 9+birr=£1 or 6+birr=$1 is available at banks and hotels only rising to 7+birr otherwise. Cash in $ is preferred everywhere and there is a requirement to declare this on entry; this is checked against all receipts on exit.
Virtually everyone will give you a receipt for everything which they will expect you to retain and show on request.
CLIMATE
Temperate due to the altitude; 20c max, -5c min at night under clear skies in the hills. UV intensity is high especially on peaks and the lack of wind can occasionally make it swelter. Afternoon cloud often in evidence but never obscuring the sun!
HEALTH
All manner of jabs; check with GP at least three months before departure and take the next day off work with Typhoid/Cholera just in case you react. Yellow fever certificate is necessary to obtain Visa and entry. Malaria tablets essential.
Take usual hygiene precautions for travel to remote areas; water purification tablets or filter are essential. Pharmaceuticals are limited so take all necessary medicines.
FOOD
Towns have many eating places varying substantially with cost; generally Wot , spicy stew, with Injera, pancake like bread made from fermented Teff.
Fresh vegetables available throughout though increasingly limited in the mountains. Eggs always available at escalating cost the more remote you go. Goats and pasta available everywhere.
Fresh supplements for hill food, taken from UK, is best bought in Gondar.
Many western soft drinks are available everywhere with bottled beer and spirits commonplace. Local brewed beer, Tella, is a potent, still fermenting, grey-brown slurry; while Tej is a hot water+honey+rum delight.
Coffee is the staple of the national economy and social life with “the coffee ceremony” a protracted affair not to be refused.
FUEL
It is illegal to cut down trees and burn wood in the National Park though this doesn’t seem to stop anybody. Most ecologically sound option is to take a stove and buy fuel in Gondar; test in stove before purchase! Gas is not available beyond Addis and stockist availability should be checked beforehand.
PHOTOGRAPHY
There is a constant haze (never saw the horizon once) which makes it very difficult to take panoramic pictures outside dawn and dusk; the scale of the Escarpment and the diversity of the desert tones demand good lighting.
It is extraordinarily difficult to take photographs under these conditions so a combination of fast film and long lenses appears to work best.
MOUNTAINEERING OBJECTIVES
Untapped, save for the major peaks by tourist routes. The 3000m Basaltic Lava flow has cracked and eroded into an Escarpment some 1500m high with gorges, cliffs, and ridges running off. Most of the rock is sound in the upper sections and there are a number of stunning volcanic plugs awaiting dedicated rock-jocks.
This expedition explored the potential of the central ridge off Ras Dejen but notable objectives include the ridges running north and east off Kiddis Yared, Abba Yared, and Walya Kend.
A more satisfactory way of developing these areas would be to establish a base camp around Denkolako or Weldedur and take Alpine trips onto the hill. Also, the Amba Ton and Amba Toloka area offers great potential only a day from the road.
The Escarpment would need to be explored in greater detail from Sankaber around to Chennek before any objectives could be identified; it looks impressive but very loose from above. The cliffs on Bwahit catch the sun and look good sport.
BACKGROUND RESEARCH
RGS Map Room, Expedition Reports Catalogue, Library Collections
Lord Hunt, Ethiopian Endeavour, Expedition to the High Simiens of Ethiopia,’72
PD Dr. Hans Hurni, University of Berne, Inst’ of Geog’, Grp’ for Dvl’ & Environ’
Mr D O’Sullivan, Ethiopian Airlines
Mr J Taylor Simien Mountains Expedition ‘93
Footloose,Trekking in the Simien Mountains
Mr P Salt, Yumo Tours, Addis Ababa
Geographical, May ‘95, pp16-18;
Ethiopia, Spectrum Guide,’95
Ms D Murphy, In Ethiopia with a mule,’68
Mr G Hancock, The Sign and the Seal,’92
Mr S Elvy, African Department, (Equatorial), Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Mr J Randell, Chairman, Anglo-Ethiopian Society
THIS EXPEDITION GRATEFULLY ACKNOWLEDGES SUPPORT FROM:
ETHIOPIAN AIRLINES NIKWAX DB MOUNTAIN SPORTS KNOYDART BOOTHS SUPERMARKETS WILDERNESS LECTURES HIMALAYAN KINGDOMS
Jon Rigby FRGS
